Hiking Kilimanjaro, the roof of Africa

“Jambo Jambo Bwana Habari Gani Nzuri Sana Wageni MwakariBishwa Kilimanjaro” - Kilimanjaro song

The experience of climbing Mount Whitney in September 2024 sparked a deep longing to tackle Mount Kilimanjaro, the crown of Africa. The spirit of "Hakuna Matata" resonated with my growing excitement. I immersed myself in preparing for the journey: figuring out what to purchase, what to rent, and carefully choosing a trekking agency to guide me. Finding the ideal, affordable flight to Tanzania was a challenge; I ended up booking an expensive KLM flight at the last minute. I made several rushed trips to REI, always realizing I'd forgotten something. Naturally, securing travel insurance was a must. I admit, I waited until the very end. Recently KLM started a direct flight from San Diego to Amsterdam. I must say, KLM's food and service were exceptional. With all the preparations finally complete, I set off for Kilimanjaro on December 28, 2024.

"Oh, the sheer variety of Kilimanjaro's terrain! It's like stepping through different worlds on a single mountain. You begin in the warmth of an equatorial setting at the base, where life bustles, but as you climb, the journey takes you into a completely different realm – the stark, icy conditions of an Arctic summit. Imagine that! Five distinct zones greet you: the welcoming Lower Slopes, lush and vibrant; the misty, mysterious Rainforest, where the air is thick with humidity; the Moorland, with its dramatic shift from sun-baked days to chilling nights; the rugged Alpine Forest, all rock and scree; and then, the final, awe-inspiring Arctic zone, where the cold bites deep and the wind whispers secrets of the summit.  It's a truly remarkable place where nature shows off its incredible diversity. My own adventure began with a series of long flights. Leaving sunny San Diego for a quick hop to Minneapolis, I was then off on an overnight journey to Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport. The weather in Minneapolis threw a wrench in things, delaying our Amsterdam flight, but it gave me an unexpected glimpse into Dutch life—and yes, they are incredibly tall! That airport had a certain charm, a sense of history, even if the technology was a bit more updated than its aesthetic. Finally, another long haul took me to Kilimanjaro, Tanzania. It was a whirlwind of travel, each leg adding to the anticipation of the mountain ahead."

D+1 (Dec 28, 2024)

Ah, my first days in Tanzania! December 28th, 2024, started with a bit of a hiccup, though. There was some sort of glitch with the online visa application, and I had to go through it all again with the immigration officer. It was a little stressful, to be honest, but the airport itself was quite charming, small and welcoming. Stepping outside, there was our driver waiting, and he was just beaming with happiness – it was contagious! By the time we reached the hotel, it was late, but I fell into a wonderful sleep. 

D+2 (Dec 29, 2024)

Then came December 29th, and wow, that breakfast at the Four Points by Sheraton in Arusha! It was absolutely incredible. Looking outside, everything was so green and lush; the temperature was just perfect. I even found myself admiring the bamboo grass – it sounds silly, but it was so beautiful. Those first moments in Arusha felt like stepping into a vibrant new world, full of warmth and unexpected delights.

Breakfast at Arusha,- lusty green in background

It was a comfortable 62 degrees Fahrenheit, a perfect day for a journey, and the world outside the bus window was just bursting with life! We drove past fields of vibrant green, dotted with towering pines and charming rural houses. Honestly, it felt like a painting coming to life, so incredibly beautiful. Finally, we reached the Lemosho Gate – the real starting point! We had lunch there, and it was with a mix of anticipation and maybe a little nervousness that I looked around at our group. Ten of us, all about to embark on this wild adventure. 'Welcome to Kilimanjaro!' It was like the mountain itself was calling us. And the wildlife! On our way to the Big Tree Camp, we were so lucky to see animals, even giraffes, amidst the lush green forest. It was like stepping into a National Geographic documentary, though oddly, there weren't as many birds as I'd expected. Still, the sight of those giraffes was something I'll never forget. It really felt like the adventure was beginning."

Giraffes in the picture

After lunch, it was  about four hour drive from Arusha that took us to the Lemosho Gate (7,550 ft / 2,300m), located on the western side of Kilimanjaro. 

Our team - wondering about greenary on the way

We arrived by midday, registered at the gate and entered Kilimanjaro Park, and we will have our lunch at the gate and we will begin to realize that we are on one of the least trodden routes compared to the "standard" lines of ascent such as Machame and Marangu. 

The flora and fauna are richer here and in places the vegetation is so untouched that it grows right across the narrow track In approximately three hours, we reached camp in the forest at Mti Mkubwa, otherwise known as Big Tree Camp, at 9,186 ft / 2,800m.

Beautiful Rain Forest

D+3( December 30) 

Oh, my goodness, that first night on the mountain, December 30th, 2024, was something else! Trying to fall asleep was quite the experience. It wasn’t just the newness of being in a tent, which was surprisingly comfortable and sturdy, by the way—and the restrooms were great, too!—it was the sounds. All night long, I could hear the roars of monkeys. Not just any monkeys, either. These were beautiful black and white ones, and their calls echoed through the night. It was a little unnerving at first, not being used to those sounds, but also kind of magical. It felt like I was truly immersed in the wild, surrounded by this incredible world I’d only ever read about. Definitely an ‘interesting’ night, in the best possible way.

Tents - our house for next couple of days

We started our day with a warm bowl of porridge, just what we needed, followed by a quick roll call to check everyone's oxygen levels. It was a little surreal, you know? That simple oxygen check suddenly made everything feel very real, like we were really doing this. And then, off we went! We plunged right into a climb through the rainforest, a world of green, heading towards the vast moorland zone. They'd told us it would be a full day's trek, and with a big gain in height. Even though we were still at a relatively low altitude, you could sense everyone knew it was going to be tough. I remember feeling a mix of excitement and a slight flutter of nerves, thinking, 'Okay, here we go. Let's see what this day brings.

Team in action

Our lunch stop was something special, perched right on the crest of a ridge, just below the Shira Crater. At nearly 10,000 feet, the air was thin, and the views were already incredible. It felt like we were on top of the world for a moment. After that, we set off again, following the ridgeline steadily upwards toward the Shira Caldera, a high-altitude desert plateau that was unlike anything I'd ever seen. It was wild to think we were walking across the remains of an ancient volcano. Shira itself, they told us, is the third of Kilimanjaro's volcanic cones, filled with lava flow from Kibo Peak. It was all so vast and ancient. Oh, and I have to mention, the restrooms up there were these fun green ones that blended right into the environment. It was a small detail, but I remember thinking how well they fit into the landscape. Definitely restrooms with a view! and I really mean it.

Me - wondering about restroom and the beauty of nature

The Crater rim has been massively eroded over time by weather and volcanic action. Today we'll get our first close views of Kibo - the central volcanic cone and literally "the Roof of Africa". The second of the 3 volcanic spouts that make up Kilimanjaro is Mawenzi, but this lies hidden for the time being to the east of Kibo. 

The ridges of mountain

The walk was approximately 6 hours before reaching the camp at 11,480 ft / 3,500m. This is the place where merging happens from other routes for Kilimanjaro. We ate pop-corn and drink tea. It was delicious!

D+4 ( December 31)

That night was rough. I just couldn't seem to get any real sleep, and I woke up feeling utterly exhausted. But then, something magical happened. I opened my eyes, and there it was: Kilimanjaro. The first time I truly saw it. And it was…different. Really different from what I expected. You see, I grew up in the Himalayas, surrounded by these massive ranges, stacks of mountains piled one behind another. But Kilimanjaro? It just stood there, solitary and immense, the tallest freestanding mountain in the world. It had this quiet, powerful presence. I remember just staring, completely mesmerized, realizing that this wasn't just another mountain; it was something truly special, something unique and awe-inspiring.

It looks pretty flat on the top. I can see some snow on the top. After breakfast, we continue to hike east across the Shira Plateau past the Shira Cathedral (12,470 ft / 3,880 m), towards Shira Two Camp. The views of the plateau, across the mountain and to the plains below are nothing less than spectacular. After lunch we will hike up to 13,123 ft / 4,000m for some additional acclimatization.

White Necked Ravens - Ruling the Kilimanjaro from ages

D+5 ( January 01)  Shira Two Camp to Baranco Camp (12,795 ft / 3,900 m)

Well, wouldn't you know it? I was the very last one to breakfast, which is something that never happens. I'd only managed about three hours of sleep again, so I was feeling a bit sluggish. But the thought of what the day held pushed me forward. We were told it would be a tough seven-hour hike through some incredible terrain. Before lunch, we began a steady uphill climb toward the Lava Tower. There was this sense that today’s pace was going to be a preview of what the summit night would be like. It was almost a test. When we finally reached the Lava Tower, way up at over 15,000 feet, we stopped for a hot lunch and a well-deserved rest. Then came the slow descent to Baranco, and honestly, the campsite there was just… breathtaking. It was at the foot of Kibo Peak, surrounded by this incredible landscape. As we came down, the southern ice fields started to become clearer and clearer. It was a sight that made me stop in my tracks. It felt like we were truly in the heart of something wild and majestic.

Sleeping at a similar height as we did the night before, gives excellent acclimatization after reaching a new height record for the trip at the Lava Tower. Today we hiked for 7 hours and it was a rewarding day.

Day+6 ( January 02) Day 6: Baranco Camp to Karanga Camp (13,300 feet / 4,050m)

After breakfast, our first challenge is to overcome the Baranco Wall, which is 984 ft / 300m high and takes us to an altitude of 13,924 ft / 4,244m.

Right after breakfast, we were faced with what everyone had been talking about – the infamous Baranco Wall. It loomed over us, this massive stretch of rock, almost a thousand feet high. Looking up at it from the camp, it honestly seemed a little terrifying. But, you know what? Once we started climbing, it wasn’t nearly as daunting as it looked. It appeared to be this straight, steep climb, but the trail actually wound its way up, nice and steady. It never really felt exposed or dangerous, which was a huge relief. There were even these fun little scrambling sections that broke things up, adding to the excitement. When we finally reached the top, we were rewarded with this incredible view of the receding Heim Glacier on Kilimanjaro’s south face. It was breathtaking. From there, we continued eastward, trekking beneath the Decken and Rebman Glaciers until we reached Karanga Camp. It was perched above the Karanga Valley, and the whole setting was just stunning. Overall, that day’s trek, those four or five hours, felt surprisingly fun. It was challenging, sure, but the thrill of conquering the Baranco Wall and the views along the way made it a truly memorable part of the journey.

Day+7 ( January 03) Karanga Camp to Kosovo Camp (16,010 feet / 4,880m) Today is another reason how we differ from other trips! From Karanga Camp, we will head steadily upward to the high camp of Kosovo, which will give our teams a better chance of reaching the summit. A 4-hour steady walk takes us to Kosovo Camp (16,010 ft / 4,900m) from where we will set up to make our summit attempt.The air is noticeably thin now.It was a slow, tough hike up to the Kosovo Camp and we will be moving extremely slow as a group as we pass Barafu Camp, where most other teams will be stopping for the day. On arrival, we begin to get ourselves preparing for our summit attempt. Making sure all our gear and water for the push up to the top, as well as getting as much to eat and drink as possible and going to bed very early. We will wake at approximately 11:30. Helicopter rescue was common in this part of the world.

I woke up at 11:30 for the summit. It's really windy here but during the day, it was hot inside the tent. Last two miles was really hard and have snow all over the place. It was a team work but with the individual spirit and aspirations. I never look back, it was just

Day+8 ( January 04) Kosovo Camp to Uhuru Peak (19,340 feet / 5,896m) to Mweka

As we start walking higher and higher, we can feel the thin year.  With the lights in the head, it was a caravan of expectations, design and inquisitiveness. 

Guess Giant Groundsel- how old is this tree ?

When we wake up at approximately 11:30 am (midnight) in the Kosovo  Camp, we will get ourselves dressed in all of our warmest summit gear as we will begin walking well before dawn, and the coldest part of the day comes just before sunrise. As it is the steepest and most demanding part of the mountain, and we will be taking it very slowly as we move up the trail. The moon may have provided some light, but used head-torches for several hours until the sun rose. We will aim to reach Stella Point on the Crater rim by sunrise after approximately 4.5 hours of constant up-hill walking. At dawn, from the Crater rim, rugged Mawenzi is a thrilling sight, with the Kibo saddle still in darkness beneath you, and the Crater’s ice-walls looming ahead. From Stella Point, we turned left, and continued along a good path for approximately one hour more, climbing to the top of the Crater, until we reached Uhuru Peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro! The Crater wall stands steeply over the Crater floor about 200 feet below us to our right. As the sun rises, light hits the Crater floor, illuminating the Furtwangler Glacier and the warmth of the sun will be a welcomed feeling! This will be by far the toughest day and the views from the summit will make you realize why you decided to put yourself through the pain! 

8:53 AM top of the Kilimanjaro

We reached top at 8:53 in the morning. It took about 8 hours 23 minutes of steep climbing. 

After about thirty minutes or so on the summit, we will begin the long slog back down to the camp on the same trail we came in on. It took 2 to 3 hours walking before we arrived back at the camp, and was welcomed with tea, juice and brunch and a quick rest before we continue our way down the mountain. It was a royal welcoming song. Let's sing the song!

“Jambo Jambo Bwana Habari Gani Nzuri Sana Wageni MwakariBishwa Kilimanjaro”

We walked another 4 hours from Kosovo Camp to reach our destination of the night, Mweka Camp at 10,200 ft / 3,100m. As you rest in celebration of your success on the highest point in Africa!

D+9: Day 9: Mweka Hut to Mweka Gate to Arusha

That last morning, it was bittersweet. We woke up early to start our final descent off Kilimanjaro. After breakfast, everyone gathered for a farewell ceremony. Saying 'kwaheri' – goodbye – to the porters was emotional. These people had been so instrumental in our journey. The hike down to Mweka Gate took about four hours, and then we hopped on a bus and headed back to the hotel. You know, during this whole trip, I met some truly incredible people. From Brazil, the US, New Zealand...and of course, our amazing team of fifty from Tanzania. It was like we'd all shared this extraordinary experience and formed a special bond. Saying goodbye was tough. I kept thinking, 'Thank you, everyone. I hope to see you again!' And I couldn't stop picturing myself returning to Tanzania for a jungle safari. I really hope I can make that happen! After all that, it was time for the long journey home: Dar es Salaam, Amsterdam, Salt Lake City, and then finally back to San Diego. It felt like coming back to a different world after everything I’d just experienced.

Dusky Turtle Dove - Ruling the Kilimanjaro

Who is calling me ? - Aconcagua in Andes, Argentina coming soon.....

Hiking Mt. Whitney 2024

Sep 11, 2024 Onion Valley Camp Ground (9600 ft) - Day 01

Today marks the beginning of our adventure. Onion Valley, situated approximately 15 miles west of downtown Independence, stands at an impressive elevation of about 9,600 feet. The access road to this scenic location is typically open from May to November, contingent on snow conditions.

We arrived at the Onion Valley campground in the afternoon, following a six-hour drive northeast from San Diego. The journey was long but filled with anticipation. This campground lies to the west of Death Valley National Park, which, at 282 feet below sea level, holds the record for the lowest point in North America.

The final stretch of our drive was particularly memorable. The road wound its way through the hills, offering breathtaking views as it ascended from Pine Valley. The curves were sharp and the climb steep, adding a sense of adventure to our arrival.

Deer's welcoming us in camp ground

Upon arriving at the campground, we were thrilled to reunite with friends from New Jersey and Texas who had already set up camp. One of the most emotional moments was meeting a high school friend after 28 years, a reunion filled with excitement and nostalgia.

To our surprise, the campground featured well-maintained restrooms nestled in the woods, a pleasant convenience in such a remote location. The area was bustling with enthusiastic hikers, all eager to embark on their adventures. Securing a permit for this trip had been quite challenging, making our arrival even more rewarding.

The first day greeted us with strong winds, causing some concern that our tent might not withstand the night. For dinner, we prepared pasta, a simple yet satisfying meal to keep us going. Despite a restless night with little sleep, I woke up the next day feeling surprisingly energized and ready for the adventures ahead.

Sep 12, 2024 Onion Valley Camp Ground - Day 02

Despite not sleeping well, I woke up early and had breakfast. The bread and scrambled eggs were ready, but I didn’t eat the bread. We then began our hike towards Kearsarge Pass.

Hikers Enjoying The Beauty of Nature

We began our hike early in the morning at 7:44 AM PST, starting at an elevation of 9,191 feet. The cool morning air and the promise of adventure invigorated us as we set off on the trail. The initial part of the hike was a steady climb, allowing us to gradually acclimate to the increasing altitude.

Along the way, we encountered many pristine lakes, each more beautiful than the last. However, I did get a bit frustrated with the Sawyer Mini Water Filter. Its small size made it quite challenging to use, requiring a significant amount of energy to squeeze water through it.

The trail was lined with pine trees, which got me thinking about how these resilient trees dominate landscapes across the globe. From the foothill of majestic Himalayas, along the way to Everest Base Camp in Nepal to the vast forests of the United States and other continents, pines seem to thrive everywhere.

Happy Day - Blue Sky and Mountains in the trail in Onion Valley

Hiking Path and Terrain

After a long and rewarding hike, we finally made it back to the campground. We bought some firewood and I treated myself to a much-needed hot shower. Now, it’s time to relax by the fire and enjoy some delicious food!

Hike Summary

Start of Kearsarge Pass Hiking

Thursday, September 12, 2024, 7:44 AM PDT

Elevation: 9191 feet

End of Kearsarge Pass Hiking

Thursday, September 12, 2024, 2:18 PM PDT

Elevation: 9191 feet

Statistics 

Thursday, September 12, 2024, 7:44 AM PDT
Distance: 10.0 miles

Duration: 6 hours, 33 minutes, and 57 seconds
Average Speed: 1.5 mph
Minimum Elevation: 9189 feet
Maximum Elevation: 11849 feet
Total climb: 2695 feet
Total descent: 2693 feet

Sep 13, 2024 Friday Mt Whitney Portal - Day 03

The next day, we headed to the Lone Pine Campground, where we would begin our hike up Mt. Whitney. On our way, we stopped at a local restaurant on the main street of Lone Pine. I had a tuna sandwich and clam chowder, and both were really good.

It took us about 30 minutes to reach the Mt. Whitney Portal, which sits at an elevation of approximately 8,300 feet above sea level and serves as the trailhead for the Mount Whitney trail.

Upon arrival, we realized we had forgotten to print our permit. Although no one checked permits along the way, we decided to head back to the Chamber of Commerce in Lone Pine to print it. While there, I picked up a t-shirt, a cup, and a 3D map as souvenirs.

Later, as we were setting up our tent and preparing for the campfire, we met a guy named Troy. He shared that he had climbed Mt. Whitney 17 times and offered some valuable tips for first-timers like us. Interestingly, he used to live in Mira Mesa, San Diego. His stories were truly inspirational, and the weather was exceptional on that beautiful September day.

September 14-15 - 1:00 AM Mt. Whitney Portal - Day 04

We began our hike with a mix of excitement and a bit of uncertainty, our headlamps lighting the way. Bear signs were everywhere, and bear canisters were provided at both campsites to store our food safely. I packed about 3 liters of water in my backpack, and the first few hours of hiking in the dark were amazing as we started our ascent.

The weather was perfect, not too cold, which added to our enthusiasm. Although I didn’t sleep well the night before, waking up at 1:00 AM due to my overactive mind, I felt somewhat rested thanks to a good night’s sleep after our long hike at Onion Valley the previous day.

As we made our way up the trail, we encountered many fellow hikers. It was clear that many people were ahead of us, their headlamps dotting the mountainside like stars. The sight of all those lights moving up the mountain was both inspiring and reassuring.

As we climbed higher, the sun began to rise, casting a beautiful glow over the landscape. The mountains looked pristine and majestic in the early morning light, making all the effort worthwhile. It was a day filled with excitement and awe as we continued our journey up Mt. Whitney.

Sun Rising - Beautiful morning as we continue to climb...

On the hiking trails, we could sense the excitement and joy of people from all over the states and countries. As we climbed higher, the terrain changed dramatically. The lush pine forests gave way to vast expanses of rocky terrain, dotted with beautiful blue lakes. Some of these lakes were icy, while others were clear and inviting.

We also passed through Sequoia National Park, adding another layer of natural beauty to our journey. The diversity of the landscape was truly breathtaking, making each step of the hike an adventure in itself.

Heading nearer to the Mt. Whitney Peak

Finally, we reached the summit of Mt. Whitney! Some hikers were behind us, and a few were ahead, but standing at the top was a beautiful moment of excitement and joy. We did it!

The sense of accomplishment was overwhelming, and the views from the highest peak in the contiguous United States were absolutely breathtaking. It was a moment to savor and remember forever.

Top of Mt. Whitney 14526 feet

US coast and Geodetic Survey Benchmark 1925 - Mt. Whitney

Hike of Mt. Whitney Summary

Start of Mt. Whitney Hiking

Saturday, September 14, 2024, 1:37 AM PDT

Elevation: 8371 feet

End of Mt. Whitney Hiking

Saturday, September 14, 2024, 6:51 PM PDT

Elevation: 8351 feet

Statistics

Saturday, September 14, 2024, 1:37 AM PDT

Distance: 22.4 miles

Duration: 17 hours, 14 minutes, and 25 seconds

Average Speed: 1.3 mph

Minimum Elevation: 8356 feet

Maximum Elevation: 14526 feet

Total climb: 6709 feet

After 17 hours, 14 minutes, and 25 seconds, we finally made it back. That night, we had a well-deserved rest, camping at the campground. The next day, we headed back to San Diego, CA, feeling accomplished after conquering the highest peak in the continental US.

What’s next? Hiking the highest peak in Africa, Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, soon!